One of the most common questions we hear at CRAFT Hardwood is: "Should I choose solid or engineered oak for my herringbone floor?" It's an important decision that affects not just your budget, but how your floor performs for decades to come.

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After installing hundreds of floors across Lancashire and Greater Manchester since 2012, we've learned that there's no universal "best" choice. The right option depends on your specific property, subfloor, and long-term plans. Let's break down everything you need to know.

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What's the Difference?

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Solid Oak Flooring

Solid oak is exactly what it sounds like: each plank is milled from a single piece of timber, typically 18-22mm thick. It's the traditional choice that's been used in homes for centuries.

Construction: 100% oak throughout the entire thickness of the board.

Typical thickness: 18mm, 20mm, or 22mm

Installation methods: Secret nailed or glued to subfloors

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Engineered Oak Flooring

Engineered oak consists of a real oak wear layer (the top surface you see and walk on) bonded to multiple layers of plywood or softwood beneath. This creates a stable, multi-layered product.

Construction: Oak wear layer (typically 3-6mm) on top of birch plywood or spruce core layers

Typical thickness: 14mm, 15mm, or 20mm total (with varying wear layer depths)

Installation methods: Can be glued, floated, or secret nailed depending on the product

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The Key Differences That Actually Matter

1. Stability and Movement

This is where engineered flooring has a genuine advantage.

Wood is a natural material that expands and contracts with changes in humidity and temperature. Solid oak moves more than engineered oak because the grain runs in one direction throughout the entire plank.

Engineered oak's cross-layered construction creates dimensional stability. The layers are oriented in different directions, which counteracts the wood's natural tendency to move. This makes engineered floors:

• Better suited to properties with underfloor heating

• More stable in rooms with fluctuating humidity (like kitchens)

• Easier to install over concrete subfloors

• Less prone to cupping or gapping

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However, in our experience across the North West, solid oak performs beautifully in most residential settings when properly acclimatised and installed by experienced craftsmen. We've fitted solid herringbone in Victorian terraces, new builds, and everything in between without issues.

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2. Longevity and Refinishing

Solid oak wins on lifespan, but engineered is no slouch.

A 20mm solid oak floor can be sanded and refinished 5-7 times over its life. Even an 18mm solid floor offers 4-5 sandings. With proper care, solid oak floors can last well over 100 years. Many of the Victorian and Edwardian parquet floors we restore are solid oak that's still going strong after a century.

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Engineered oak's lifespan depends entirely on the wear layer thickness:

• 3mm wear layer: Can be sanded 1 time safely or 2 times very carefully

• 6mm wear layer: Can be sanded 2-3 times

• Premium engineered (8mm+ wear layer): Can approach solid oak's refinishing potential

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For most homeowners, even 1-2 refinishing opportunities means 40-60 years of life, which is more than adequate. But if you're thinking in terms of "forever floors" that will serve multiple generations, solid oak has the edge.

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3. Underfloor Heating Compatibility

This is where we see the biggest practical difference in the North West.

Underfloor heating (UFH) is increasingly popular in new builds and renovations. While both solid and engineered oak can work with UFH, engineered is genuinely better suited:

• More dimensionally stable under temperature changes

• Typically thinner, allowing better heat transfer

• Less risk of gapping or movement

Sometimes we install solid oak over UFH, but it requires careful selection of timber, proper installation protocols, and realistic expectations about movement. The key is keeping the UFH temperature below 27°C and commissioning it properly.

For UFH applications, we generally recommend engineered oak or, if you prefer solid, using narrower planks (90-120mm rather than 180-240mm wide planks) to minimise visible movement.

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4. Subfloor Requirements

Your existing subfloor often makes the decision for you. 
For planks installation:

Concrete subfloors:  Engineered oak is the practical choice. While solid oak can be installed over concrete, it requires either battening and a plywood overlay (expensive and reduces ceiling height) or specialist adhesives. Engineered oak glues directly to properly prepared concrete with a damp-proof membrane.

Wooden subfloors: Both work beautifully. Solid oak secret-nailed to wooden joists or boards is the traditional installation method and what you'll find in most period properties. Engineered can also be secret-nailed or glued.

Existing vinyl or tiles: You'll need to remove these first for either option, but engineered gives you more installation flexibility afterward.
For parquet installation:

Parquet can be fitted over both properly prepared wooden and concrete subfloors, with the smaller pieces allowing them to be glued or nailed as needed; the method isn’t restricted by material, so both solid and engineered oak work well, provided the chosen product is suited to the home’s environment and conditions.

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5. Cost Considerations

This might surprise you: engineered isn't always cheaper.

Budget range:

• Economy engineered: £35-50/m²

• Mid-range solid or engineered: £50-90/m²

• Premium solid or engineered: £90-150+/m²

The cost depends more on wood grade, finish quality, and brand than whether it's solid or engineered. Premium engineered oak with a thick wear layer from a reputable manufacturer often costs the same or more than mid-range solid oak.

Installation costs are similar for both, though solid oak installation on wooden subfloors is marginally quicker.

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6. Appearance and Feel

Here's the truth: once installed and finished, most people cannot tell the difference between quality solid and engineered oak.

Both can be supplied unfinished (we sand and finish on-site) or pre-finished. Both come in the same range of grades, from clean, minimal knots to heavily characterful rustic oak. Both take stains and oils identically.

The only visible difference is at the edges. If you look at a cut end or expansion gap, you'll see the layered construction of engineered oak. In normal use, installed as a herringbone or plank floor, there's no visual difference.

Underfoot, some people claim solid oak feels "warmer" or "more solid." In our experience, any difference is negligible with quality products properly installed.

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When We Recommend Solid Oak

Solid oak makes sense when:

• You have wooden subfloors throughout

• You're renovating a period property and want authentic traditional construction

• You're planning to stay in the property long-term (20+ years)

• You want maximum refinishing potential

• You're not installing underfloor heating

• You're comfortable with natural wood movement and understand seasonal gapping is normal

• You want the satisfaction of knowing your floor is 100% oak

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When We Recommend Engineered Oak

Engineered oak makes sense when:

• You have concrete subfloors

• You're installing underfloor heating

• Your property is new-build or has inconsistent humidity levels

• You want maximum stability and minimum movement

• You're installing in a kitchen or open-plan space

• You need wider planks (180mm+) but want stability

• Your ceiling height is limited

• You want a floating floor installation

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What About Herringbone and Parquet Specifically?

Since we specialise in patterned floors, this deserves special mention.

Both solid and engineered work beautifully for herringbone and parquet patterns. We install both regularly. However, there are some considerations:

Solid oak herringbone is the traditional choice. The individual blocks (typically 70mm x 250mm or 90mm x 600mm) are small enough that wood movement is distributed across hundreds of pieces, reducing visible gapping. When glued down to subfloors, it creates an incredibly strong, long-lasting installation.

Engineered herringbone offers easier installation over concrete and UFH compatibility. Modern engineered herringbone blocks are extremely well made, with tongue-and-groove edges and thick wear layers.

For Versailles parquet panels and elaborate patterns, we often prefer solid oak because the complex cutting and fitting benefits from working with solid material throughout.

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The Questions to Ask Yourself

Rather than choosing based on what's "better," ask yourself:

1. What's my subfloor? Concrete strongly suggests engineered; wooden allows both.

2. Do I have or want underfloor heating? UFH works better with engineered.

3. How long do I plan to stay in this property? 10-15 years? Either works. 30+ years? Solid oak's extra refinishing potential adds value.

4. What's my budget? Compare like-for-like in terms of quality, not just solid vs engineered.

5. How stable is my property's environment? New builds with good insulation and heating: both work. Older properties with variable humidity: engineered is more forgiving.

6. What matters most to me? Authenticity and maximum lifespan (solid) or stability and UFH compatibility (engineered)?

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Our Honest Recommendation

We install both solid and engineered oak regularly, and both create stunning, long-lasting floors when properly specified and fitted.

For most modern installations with concrete subfloors and/or underfloor heating, engineered oak is the practical choice. Choose a product with at least a 6mm wear layer from a reputable manufacturer.

For period property renovations with wooden subfloors and no UFH, solid oak is traditional, appropriate, and will outlast all of us.
 

The most important factors for floor longevity aren't whether it's solid or engineered, but:

• Proper subfloor preparation

• Allowing timber to acclimatise before installation

• Expert installation with correct expansion gaps

• Quality finishing products

• Regular maintenance

A poorly installed solid oak floor will fail faster than a well-installed engineered floor, and vice versa.

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What We Use in Our Own Homes

For what it's worth, our team has both. Wojciech has engineered oak herringbone in his 1980s semi (mix of concrete and wooden subfloors). Michael and Adam both have solid oak parquet floors in their 1930s semis (wooden subfloors).

All are happy with their choices because each was right for the specific circumstances.

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Making Your Decision

The best approach is to discuss your specific property with an experienced installer. We're always happy to visit your home, assess your subfloors, discuss your plans, and recommend the most suitable option.

We can provide samples of both solid and engineered oak in your chosen finish so you can compare them in your actual space, in your lighting conditions.

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Remember: whether solid or engineered, what matters most is choosing quality materials and having them installed by craftsmen who understand wood and care about the details.

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Need expert advice on choosing the right flooring for your project?
Call us on 07856 308 208
or email contact@crafthardwood.co.uk.

We serve Chorley, Lancashire, Greater Manchester, Liverpool, and throughout the North West.

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We offer free, no-obligation site visits where we can assess your subfloors and discuss the best options for your specific property.