CRAFT Hardwood Guides
Choosing the Right Parquet Pattern for Your Room
How room size, layout, and architecture influence which pattern will look best in your space — and how to get the decision right before installation day.
Written by Wojciech, founder of CRAFT Hardwood | Updated March 2026 | 12 min read
Most people choose their pattern the same way they choose a paint colour — they see something they like, decide they want it, and hope it will work in their space.
With a little knowledge, it always does.
This guide walks through every factor that shapes that decision — the room's proportions, its architecture, its light, and how the floor connects to the rest of the house — so you can choose with confidence and make it entirely your own.
The patterns we're talking about
Before getting into the detail, a quick reminder of the options:
Standard herringbone — individual rectangular blocks laid at 90 degrees to each other in a V-shape. The classic. The pattern most people picture when they think of parquet flooring.
Chevron — similar to herringbone but with the ends of each board cut at an angle so they meet in a continuous unbroken zigzag rather than a stepped joint. More geometric, sharper, more contemporary in feel.
Double herringbone — two boards laid side by side in each arm of the herringbone rather than one. Creates a bolder, wider pattern that reads differently across a room.
Versailles panels — elaborate square panels made up of smaller pieces arranged in a complex geometric design. Named after the floors of the Palace of Versailles. The most intricate and formal of the patterned options.
Basket weave and other traditional parquet patterns — square blocks arranged in alternating directions. Less common than herringbone but still beautiful in the right setting.
Each has a different character. Each behaves differently in different rooms. Understanding why is what this guide is about.
1. Room Size — The Most Important Factor
Room size influences pattern choice in two ways: scale and proportion.
Scale refers to the relationship between the size of the individual blocks and the size of the room. A small herringbone block in a large room can look busy and restless — the eye has too much detail to process across too large an area. A large block in a small room can look clumsy, with too few complete pattern repeats to read properly.
As a general guide:
Small rooms up to 15m² — narrower blocks (70mm wide) keep the pattern scaled appropriately. A large block in a small hallway overwhelms the space.
Medium rooms 15-35m² — the widest range of block sizes work well. Standard 70-90mm blocks suit most rooms in this range. Wider 90mm blocks add presence in rooms at the upper end.
Large rooms 35m²+ — wider blocks (90mm+) and bolder patterns read better across large expanses. A very fine herringbone in a large open-plan space can look like texture rather than pattern from a distance.
Proportion refers to whether the pattern is sympathetic to the room's shape. A long, narrow hallway behaves differently to a square reception room, and the pattern direction can either exaggerate or correct that.
More on this in the section on room layout below.
2. Block Width and Length — More Important Than People Realise
Within each pattern type, the dimensions of the individual blocks make a significant difference to how the finished floor looks.
Standard herringbone blocks come in various sizes, most commonly:
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70mm × 250mm — traditional proportions, fine and detailed, suits period properties and smaller rooms
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90mm × 450mm — slightly bolder, more contemporary feel, the most popular size for modern residential installations
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100mm × 500mm — bold and striking, suits larger rooms and more minimal interiors
For chevron, the cut angle at the end of each board is usually 45 degrees, but some manufacturers offer 60-degree cuts for a different visual effect. The angle affects how pointed or open the chevron peak appears.
One practical note: block dimensions also affect cost. Wider, longer blocks require more precision cutting and generate more waste at room edges, both of which add to installation cost.
3. Room Layout — Direction and Starting Point
The direction the herringbone pattern runs across a room is a decision that significantly affects how the space feels. It's also one that's impossible to change without relaying the floor.
Running lengthways (the V pointing toward the longest wall) elongates the room visually. In a long narrow room this can make it feel even longer. In a room that is slightly short and wide, it adds a sense of depth.
Running widthways (the V pointing toward the shortest wall) broadens the room visually. In a long narrow hallway, this can help the space feel less tunnel-like.
Running diagonally (at 45 degrees to the walls) is less common but creates a dramatic, dynamic effect. It's particularly striking in entrance halls and formal reception rooms where it's seen from a distance. It also generates more waste at room edges, adding to material cost.
The standard approach for most rooms is to run the pattern lengthways, with the V pointing toward the main viewpoint — typically the doorway you enter through or the main window. This gives the floor a natural direction that draws the eye into the room.
We discuss pattern direction with every client before installation. It costs nothing to think about carefully in advance and everything to get wrong.
4. Architecture and Period — Matching Pattern to Property
The architecture of your home is one of the strongest guides to pattern choice. A floor that feels entirely natural in one building can feel out of place in another.
Victorian and Edwardian properties — these homes were often originally fitted with herringbone or parquet floors, which means standard herringbone and traditional parquet patterns are architecturally correct. The proportions of Victorian rooms — higher ceilings, generous bay windows, substantial fireplaces — suit both standard and double herringbone in traditional warm oak tones. Versailles panels work particularly well in formal reception rooms with period detailing.
1930s and interwar properties — the wider, lower proportions of 1930s semis and detached houses suit standard herringbone well. The architecture is less formal than Victorian, which means chevron can also work here — particularly in open-plan extensions.
Modern and contemporary properties — chevron is the natural choice for clean-lined contemporary spaces. Its geometric precision suits minimal architecture, large windows, and open-plan layouts. Standard herringbone in lighter, more neutral oak tones also works well in modern spaces.
New builds — the challenge with new builds is that the rooms tend to be smaller and the ceilings lower, which means scale matters more. Standard herringbone in a 70-90mm block usually works better than larger formats. Chevron adds sophistication to rooms that might otherwise feel ordinary.
Converted properties — barns, warehouses, and commercial conversions suit bolder patterns and wider blocks. The larger volumes and more industrial character can carry double herringbone, wide-format blocks, or Versailles panels that would overwhelm a standard residential room.
5. How the Floor Connects to Adjacent Rooms
This is a consideration many people overlook until it's too late.
If your herringbone floor runs through multiple rooms or connects to other flooring types at doorways, the transition needs to be planned. This affects both the pattern direction and the block size.
Continuing through doorways — if the herringbone pattern runs from one room into another through a doorway, the pattern direction should ideally continue uninterrupted. This requires planning the starting point so the pattern aligns across the threshold. We do this calculation before installation begins.
Meeting a different floor type — where herringbone meets tiles, stone, carpet, or a different timber floor, a well-planned threshold makes the difference between a transition that looks deliberate and one that looks accidental.
Multiple rooms at different heights — if adjacent rooms have flooring at different finished heights, the herringbone blocks need to be chosen with this in mind. A thicker block in one room than another creates a step that's both a trip hazard and visually awkward.
These aren't problems — they're decisions. Making them before installation rather than on the day is what allows them to be solved properly.
6. Light — Natural and Artificial
The way light falls across a herringbone floor changes how the pattern reads completely.
Natural light direction — herringbone and chevron both create shadows within the pattern because of the angled joints. In rooms with strong directional light from a single window, these shadows can be beautiful — they add depth and movement to the floor. In rooms with even, diffused light, the pattern reads more softly.
Running the pattern toward the light source — if the main window is at one end of the room, running the herringbone V toward that window means the pattern points into the light. This tends to make the floor feel more expansive. Running it across the light source creates stronger shadow definition within the joints.
Neither is wrong. But it's worth thinking about before the starting point is set.
Artificial lighting — pendant lights, downlights, and floor lamps all affect how the pattern reads in the evening. A floor that looks calm and even in daylight can become dramatic and textured under directional artificial light. If you're planning statement lighting, discuss the floor direction in that context.
Finish and light — gloss and semi-gloss finishes reflect light and make the pattern more dynamic. Matte and satin finishes absorb light and make the pattern feel calmer. This is a separate decision from pattern choice, but the two interact.
7. Borders — When to Add Them and When Not To
A border is a frame of timber running around the perimeter of the herringbone field. Done well, a border adds definition, elegance, and a sense of craft. Done poorly, or in the wrong room, it can feel fussy.
When borders work well:
Formal reception rooms with period detailing — a border reinforces the architecture and adds a sense of completeness.
Large square rooms — a border creates visual definition and stops the herringbone pattern from feeling like it's running off the edge of the room.
Period restoration projects — a border is often original to the floor design and should be reinstated.
When to leave the border out:
Open-plan spaces — a border cuts the floor into defined zones, which can work against the open feeling.
Long narrow rooms — a border running around all four walls draws attention to the room's proportions rather than correcting them.
Contemporary minimal interiors — a border can feel decorative in a space that is deliberately unadorned.
If you're considering a border, the width, timber species, and finish should all be discussed before installation. A border added as an afterthought rarely looks as considered as one designed into the floor from the start.
8. Colour and Grade — How They Interact With Pattern
The colour and grade of the timber affects how the herringbone pattern reads.
Clean, minimal grade oak (few knots, consistent colour) — the pattern reads very clearly because there's little variation in the individual boards to distract the eye. The geometric quality of the herringbone or chevron is emphasised. This suits contemporary spaces and formal period rooms.
Rustic, characterful grade oak (heavy knots, natural variation, colour range within boards) — the pattern reads more softly because the variation within individual boards breaks up the geometry. This suits informal period properties and spaces where warmth matters more than precision.
Light and white-toned oak — lightens the room visually but can make the pattern less defined in rooms with white walls, because the contrast between floor and wall is reduced. Works beautifully in rooms with dark furniture or contrast elements.
Darker stained oak — the pattern becomes very defined and bold, particularly in lighter rooms. Darker floors in small rooms can feel heavy. In larger rooms with good natural light, a darker stained herringbone is extremely striking.
There's no formula. The best approach is to look at samples in your actual space, in your actual light conditions, before committing.
The decision in practice
When we visit a property for a site visit, pattern choice is always part of the conversation. We're looking at the room's proportions, the architecture, how it connects to adjacent spaces, and where the natural light comes from.
Most people arrive with a strong instinct about what they want. Our job is to either confirm that instinct with technical reasoning, or flag where a different choice might serve the space better. In most cases, the client's instinct is right. Occasionally, we suggest something they hadn't considered — a different block size, a change of direction, a border they hadn't thought of — that transforms the room.
The best floors come from that conversation. Not from a catalogue decision made without seeing the space.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Is chevron more expensive than standard herringbone?
A: Yes, typically costs 10-15% more in installation labour. The angled cuts at the end of each board require more precision and generate more waste material.
Q: Which pattern is best for a hallway?
A: Standard herringbone running lengthways is the classic choice for hallways and usually the strongest. Consider running the pattern widthways if the hallway is very long and narrow to avoid emphasising the tunnel effect. Block size matters too — smaller blocks (70mm) suit narrower hallways better.
Q: Can I have herringbone in an L-shaped room or irregular space?
A: Yes, though it requires more careful planning. The pattern starting point needs to be set from the main body of the room. Angles and returns are handled with precise cuts. We plan every irregular layout carefully before installation begins.
Q: Does the pattern direction need to match throughout an open-plan space?
A: In an open-plan space, the pattern should ideally run consistently in one direction throughout. Changing direction within a single open area looks unplanned and creates a visual conflict.
Q: Should I choose the same block size for every room?
A: If the herringbone runs through multiple connected rooms, using the same block size maintains visual consistency. If rooms are separated by doorways and thresholds, different block sizes can work — but discuss this with your installer before deciding.
Planning your herringbone floor?
Pattern choice is one of the first conversations we have on every site visit — and one of the most important. We're happy to discuss your specific room, show you samples in the space, and advise on everything from block size to pattern direction before you commit to anything.
We offer free site visits across Lancashire, Greater Manchester, Merseyside, and Cheshire.
Call: 07856 308 208 Email: contact@crafthardwood.co.uk
We serve Chorley, Lancashire, Greater Manchester, Liverpool, Chester, and throughout the North West.