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CRAFT Hardwood Guides

How to Prepare Your Home for a Wood Floor Installation

A practical guide to getting your property ready — so your installation runs smoothly, on time, and with the best possible result.

Written by Wojciech, founder of CRAFT Hardwood | Updated March 2026 | 12 min read

Most people spend weeks choosing their floor. The timber, the pattern, the finish. They get samples, compare grades, think carefully about colour.

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Then the installation day arrives and the house isn't ready.

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It's one of the most common causes of delays, additional costs, and avoidable stress. A poorly prepared property forces the installer to work around problems rather than focus on the floor. That affects quality, timeline, and cost.

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This guide tells you exactly what to do before we arrive — and why each step matters.

Why Preparation Matters More Than People Think

A herringbone or parquet installation is precision work. Every board must be cut and fitted at exact angles. The subfloor must be clean, dry, and level. The timber must have acclimatised to your home.

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None of that is possible if the room is full of furniture, the builders are still finishing the kitchen, or the new plaster on the walls is still drying.

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We've seen installations delayed by days — sometimes longer — because a property wasn't ready. Those delays cost money and cause frustration that's entirely avoidable.

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The good news is that preparation is straightforward once you know what's needed.

1. Complete All Wet Trades First

This is the single most important rule of floor installation sequencing.

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Wet trades — plastering, screeding, tiling, painting, rendering — release significant moisture into the air and into the fabric of the building as they dry. Wood flooring installed before wet trades are complete will absorb that moisture and move, cup, or gap.

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Before we install your floor, the following should be complete and fully dry:

  • All plastering and skimming

  • All tiling (including grout)

  • All painting and decorating

  • Any concrete or screed work

  • Any wet adhesive or caulking

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How long does it take for wet trades to dry? As a general guide, allow one day per millimetre of plaster thickness — so a 13mm skim coat needs approximately two weeks. Fresh concrete screed takes considerably longer, sometimes weeks or months depending on thickness and drying conditions.

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If in doubt, we can test moisture levels during the site visit and advise on readiness.

2. Ensure the Heating Is Working

This is non-negotiable — especially in autumn and winter.

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Your heating must be functioning and running at normal living temperature (18-21°C) before the timber arrives for acclimatisation. Cold, damp rooms cause timber to acclimatise incorrectly. A floor installed in a cold room will behave differently once the heating is switched on.

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If you are renovating a property that has been empty or unheated, run the heating for at least a week before the timber is delivered. This brings the building's moisture levels closer to what they'll be in normal occupation.

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For properties with underfloor heating, the commissioning process is more involved. Read our separate guide on wood flooring and underfloor heating for full details.

3. Clear the Rooms Completely

The rooms being floored must be completely empty before installation begins.

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This means:

  • All furniture removed

  • All rugs and existing floor coverings cleared

  • All items stored in cupboards moved out if flooring runs into those spaces

  • Radiators should remain in place unless specifically agreed otherwise

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We do not move furniture as part of our standard service. If you need help with large or heavy items, arrange this before installation day.

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Fitted furniture such as kitchens, wardrobes, and bathroom vanity units present a decision: do you install the floor before or after fitting? Our strong recommendation is to install flooring first, then fit furniture on top. This gives a cleaner result, allows the floor to run properly under units, and avoids cut edges being visible if units are ever removed. Discuss this with your kitchen or furniture fitter well in advance — sequencing trades properly is important.

4. Allow Time for Acclimatisation

Once your timber is delivered to the property, it needs time to adjust to the moisture conditions of the room before installation begins.

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Wood is a natural material. It absorbs and releases moisture in response to its environment. Timber delivered from a warehouse at one moisture content needs time to reach equilibrium with your home before it's fixed in place.

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If we install without acclimatisation, the floor will continue to adjust after installation — causing gaps, movement, or in severe cases, buckling.

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Our standard process:

  • Timber delivered to the property

  • Stored in the room where it will be installed, or a room with similar conditions

  • Heating on at normal living temperature throughout

  • Minimum 7 days before installation begins

  • Longer periods (14 days up to 3-4 weeks) for solid timber or very large format boards

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What this means for your project: plan the timber delivery at least a week — ideally two — before your installation start date. Factor this into your overall renovation timeline.

The room conditions during acclimatisation should reflect normal living conditions: heating on, windows and doors closed, relative humidity between 40-60%.

5. Sort the Subfloor

We will assess your subfloor during the site visit and again on installation day. But there are things you can do in advance to help.

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Remove existing floor coverings if possible. Old carpet, tiles, vinyl, or other flooring materials need to come up before we can assess and prepare the subfloor beneath. Removing these in advance saves time on installation day and lets us see what we're working with earlier.

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Note any known problems. If you know of areas where the existing floor squeaks, feels soft, has been wet in the past, or is uneven, tell us before installation day. We'd rather know about potential issues early than discover them when we arrive.

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For concrete subfloors: ensure the surface is clean and free of debris, old adhesive lumps, or loose material. We will assess moisture levels and apply damp-proof membrane as required, but a clean starting point saves time.

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For timber subfloors: check that airbricks on external walls are clear and unobstructed. Blocked airbricks reduce underfloor ventilation and increase moisture beneath timber floors. It takes five minutes to clear them and makes a real difference.

6. Plan for Dust

Even with our virtually dust-free sanding equipment, a flooring installation generates some dust and disruption. The preparation and cutting work in particular produces fine wood dust that travels further than most people expect.

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Steps to protect your home:

  • Remove or cover soft furnishings in adjacent rooms

  • Cover kitchen appliances and worktops if the kitchen is nearby

  • Move artwork, mirrors, and anything fragile from rooms adjoining to the work area

  • Close internal doors to rooms not being worked on

  • Consider covering any built-in shelving or wardrobes near the work area

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If you have young children or family members with dust allergies or respiratory sensitivities, it's worth planning for them to spend time elsewhere during the sanding and finishing stages.

We take care to contain dust as much as possible, but preparation on your part makes a meaningful difference to the rest of the house.

7. Protect Stairs and Hallways

We carry tools, timber, adhesive, and equipment through your property. Stair carpets and hallway floors take significant wear during an installation project.

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Before we arrive:

  • Lay protective covering on any carpeted stairs we'll be using

  • Protect hallway floors with dust sheets or cardboard

  • Clear hallways and access routes of obstacles, coats, shoes, and anything fragile

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This is particularly important in period properties where original features — tiles, stone floors, plasterwork — are easily damaged by heavy foot traffic and equipment.

8. Consider Adjoining Rooms and Thresholds

Think carefully about where your new floor meets existing flooring in adjoining rooms. This affects both the installation and the finished result.

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Questions to consider before installation day:

  • Are you replacing flooring in multiple rooms? If so, will the pattern continue through doorways or change at thresholds?

  • What is the height difference between the new floor and adjoining rooms? Significant height differences require carefully planned transition strips.

  • Are there doors that may need undercutting to allow the floor to run beneath them cleanly? We can do this, but it's worth discussing in advance.

  • Are radiator pipes coming through the floor? We'll need exact locations.

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These decisions are much easier to make before installation begins than during it.

9. Plan for Children and Pets

An active flooring installation is not a safe environment for young children or pets. Adhesives, tools, cut timber, and sanding equipment all present hazards.

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We'd recommend arranging for children and pets to be elsewhere on installation days, particularly during cutting, adhesive application, and sanding and finishing stages.

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If that isn't possible, speak to us before the project starts and we'll plan the installation sequence with this in mind where we can.

10. Understand the Drying Time After Finishing

Once your floor is installed and finished, it needs time before it can be used normally.

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Typical waiting times after finishing:

  • Walk on floor (with socks, no shoes): few hours after final finish coat

  • Replace furniture: 48-72 hours minimum — use felt pads on all legs

  • Return to full normal use: 5-7 days for lacquer finishes, up to 14 days for oil finishes to fully cure

  • Replace rugs: Wait at least 4 weeks — rugs placed too early can prevent the finish from curing properly and cause discolouration​

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These aren't arbitrary restrictions. Finish applied to wood needs time to cure fully. Placing heavy furniture or rugs too early can permanently mark the surface or trap moisture under the rug, causing the finish to fail.

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We will confirm specific waiting times based on the finish we apply on your project.

A Simple Preparation Checklist

Before installation day, confirm the following:

  1. All wet trades complete and fully dry

  2. Heating functioning and running at normal temperature

  3. Rooms completely cleared of furniture and belongings

  4. Timber delivered and acclimatising for minimum 7-14 days

  5. Existing floor coverings removed where possible

  6. Airbricks clear (timber subfloors)

  7. Soft furnishings and valuables protected from dust

  8. Stair and hallway access routes protected

  9. Threshold decisions agreed

  10. Children and pets arranged to be elsewhere on installation days

How Far in Advance Should You Start Preparing?

The timeline that works best for most projects:

4-6 weeks before: Confirm installation date, order timber, plan sequencing of other trades

2-3 weeks before: Complete all wet trades, begin heating property if previously unheated

1-2 weeks before: Timber delivered and acclimatisation begins

2-3 days before: Clear rooms, protect hallways and stairs, cover soft furnishings

Installation day: Property ready, clear access, children and pets elsewhere

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The most common mistake is leaving preparation too late. Acclimatisation alone takes a minimum of a week. Wet trades need time to dry. Sequencing these correctly means planning ahead.

We Help You Get It Right

During our free site visit, we don't just measure the room and quote a price. We assess the subfloor, discuss sequencing with other trades, and advise on anything that might affect the installation.

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If you're not sure whether your property is ready, ask us. We'd rather have that conversation in advance than arrive on installation day to find a problem.

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A well-prepared property means a smoother installation, a better result, and a floor that performs exactly as it should for decades to come.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Do I need to remove my skirting boards before installation?

A: Not necessarily. We can either remove and refit skirting boards or install new beading on top of existing skirting to cover the expansion gap. We'll advise the best approach for your property during the site visit. Removing and refitting skirting gives a cleaner result but adds cost and time.

Q: Can you move my furniture for me?

A: Furniture removal is not included in our standard service. Rooms should be clear before we arrive. For very large or heavy items, we'd recommend arranging removal specialists in advance.

Q: What if my builder is still finishing work in other rooms?

A: This is common in full renovations. The key is ensuring the rooms being floored are complete and dry, even if work continues elsewhere. We'll discuss phasing with you during the site visit.

Q: How do I know if my subfloor is ready?

A: We test moisture levels during the site visit and will advise clearly on readiness. If there are concerns, we'll tell you what needs to happen before we can proceed.

Q: Can I stay in the house during installation?

A: Yes, most clients do. The main consideration is adhesive fumes during gluing, and restricted access to finished rooms during drying. We'll discuss what to expect at each stage of your specific project.

Q: What happens if we find a problem with the subfloor on installation day?

A: We will always discuss any findings with you before proceeding. Significant subfloor issues discovered on the day may affect the timeline and cost. This is why the site visit assessment — and honest communication before we start — is so important.

Planning Your Installation?

We offer free site visits across Lancashire, Greater Manchester, Merseyside, and Cheshire where we assess your property, advise on preparation, and provide a transparent fixed-price quotation.

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Call: 07856 308 208 Email: contact@crafthardwood.co.uk

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We serve Chorley, Lancashire, Greater Manchester, Liverpool, Chester, and throughout the North West. Every quotation includes a clear timeline and advice on how to prepare your property for the best possible result.

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